There is a lot to love about Seoul. Whether visiting or studying, working and living, most of the foreigners I have spoken to have either extended their stay, returned for a second (maybe third) holiday or picked up and made a more permanent move. I have been in Seoul for nearly two months and have very limited Korean, so I am by no means an expert. However, I picked up a few things that I have found interesting and that I wish I knew before coming to study here.
Know your apps
The subway system in Seoul is incredible. It is easy to navigate without speaking or reading any Korean (except for a few announcements that have only been in Korean). There are a lot of good Subway apps as well, which will give you detailed info including which car and door number will be best for your transfer. I use ‘Subway Seoul’ and it even gives you detailed exit info. It is always important to pay attention to the exit you want, because there can be up to 14 exits quite far away from where you want to go. Despite clear directions, changing lines can take some time and the subway stations can become a maze. Factor in changeovers if you need to be somewhere on time.
Forget Google maps
Google Maps can never be trusted to get you around Seoul. I use it sometimes to see where I am and if I’ve cross-referenced a place with another map. It will also only give you directions for public transport, not walking or driving. I first heard Google maps doesn’t work in Korea because they don’t want North Korea to have access. I’ve also heard that but apparently it’s because Google don’t want to pay for the license but further research found this article and it’s complex legalities based on mapping restrictions. As a result – the best app is Naver. Which is also the number one search engine. However, the app has no English option. Which is another reason it pays to learn the Korean alphabet.
Get Kakao Talk
This is the Korean Facebook/Whatsapp/Viber/Weibo. You will see the ‘Kakao friends’ emoji characters everywhere. You will see them on toothbrushes, biscuits and in the Gangnam ‘Kakao Friends’ Store, which seems to have a perpetual line up to get in. It’s really easy to add people on Kakao and it’s not weird or creepy to ask to add them, unlike Facebook there isn’t photos you were tagged in from Highschool or a newsfeed so it’s a lot easier to control the information you make available to others. It’s great for making friends but can also use it to book a taxi, order a meal or get support from a business (my bank added me on Kakao).
Learn the alphabet (at least)
The Korean Alphabet is an amazing invention and with a little effort, easy to learn. You may not know what every word means but it will get you a long way. Especially when you realise how many words have been directly translated from English. These ‘konglish’ words mean you can usually order a coffee in Korean because you just have to say ‘Americano (Hot or Ice)’. The Korean alphabet is also helpful for places and will get you surprisingly far.
The language divide
I feel the only way I’ll become more comfortable and get to know the people and the culture of Korea better is if I learn to speak better Korean. Many of the Korean students I speak to have perfect English with American accents, but there are also people who will avoid you because they don’t want to speak English. If you want to travel outside of Seoul the level and willingness to speak English with foreigners falls dramatically. My friend told me that once in a city just outside of Seoul it took ages for the staff at a restaurant to come and take their order, and when the waitress took their order (they spoke in Korean) she kept laughing. This was because she wasn’t really a waitress and the restaurant asked a customer who spoke English to take their order for them.
Basic Etiquette
You will rarely see anyone eating while walking around on the streets and definitely not while on the subway. There are a lot of people in Seoul so there is different attitudes to pushing, crowds and fast customer service. Elevators can get very full and take a long time to come to you – so lots of people will push to fit in, including the delivery guy with the boxes you swear won’t fit. This is the same for the subway. If someone behind you is trying to get out of the elevator or the train and they push you a little, don’t be offended; this is because if they don’t get out the doors will close on them and they need you to make way. The subway can be hazardous for this reason and I have seen bags and people get trapped in the merciless subway doors, so don’t run for a train.
Respect for your elders
You should also be aware of people older than you and show due respect. In particular the famous Ajumma. My homestay family described it as ‘Ajumma magic – they can do what they want.’ Older women in Korea can sometimes be known as ‘ajumma’ meaning ‘older married woman’ (sometimes translated to aunt) but I have heard conflicting accounts of whether it’s ok to call someone an ajumma to their face (don’t do this). Ajumma’s will push in front of you for a seat, push in line and push you in the back on a packed subway and you can’t get annoyed at them. Most Korean people are really lovely, ajumma are no exception. Read more about the famous Ajumma here.
Respect for others
Respect is a big deal in Korea and one thing that I learnt on arrival is that when you hand things to someone, a friend, teacher, waitress, store clerk, you should use two hands when possible. If you can’t use two hands, then place your hand underneath the other. For example, when giving money at a convenience store use two hands or one hand under the arm you’re holding the money in. This is also true for pouring drinks for someone. Mostly Koreans will forgive you if you don’t do this and for other basic errors if you a foreigner (and I have been told that being recognised as a foreigner is harder if you appear Korean) but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try and learn basic etiquette.
Keep it conservative
One thing I really wish I knew before packing to come to Korea is that as a woman, you really shouldn’t be wearing anything that shows your chest/breasts. You will occasionally see someone on the train wearing something low cut or a bit see-through, but when I wore something low-cut on my first day in Korea I got a lot of stares and although my Korean friend said ‘It’s ok, you’re a foreigner,’ I could tell it wasn’t really ok. Another friend who is Korean-Australian told me she has had ajumma’s come up to her and tell her ‘Student! Put some clothes on’ in Korean. Most Korean women don’t seem to wear anything low cut, but you can wear dresses/shorts/skirts as short as you’d like without it being a faux pas.
It’s super safe, but don’t drop your guard
I can walk around Seoul as unafraid of pickpockets and assault as I am in my hometown of Adelaide. I feel safer at night than in my hometown and the subway even at the busiest times is secure and I can leave my things on a table in a café while I go to the bathroom with no fear. However, while I was studying in Gangnam, women around my age would approach foreigners they saw and say they wanted to make ‘foreign friends.’ This is actually pretty common because lots of people want to practice their English and have no malicious intentions, and can be a great way to make Korean friends. But these few times these young women would start talking to you and then say they ran a tourism business and would you like to try on traditional Korean clothes and say a prayer? My friend and I both avoided these people but some other foreigners ended up paying quite a bit after trying on the Korean clothing and then when making the ‘prayer’ gave all their details (names, family names, phone number) under the premise of a ‘authenticity’.
It’s a highly developed city
Except in some areas. I was surprised when I walked around the streets of even the busiest areas of Seoul and smelt sewage. The perception I’d had of Seoul was one of futuristic development, but no country is without a few faults. I was also surprised that often there is a sign on the back of the bathroom door encouraging you to put toilet paper in a bin in the cubicle instead of flushing. However, this was less upsetting than it was surprising and has never been an issue as it is usually only for a short time or in specific area.
Keep a plastic bag with you
Seoul can also be challenging because of its waste system, you can walk a long way without finding a public garbage bin. As a result there are often piles of trash in the street and if you go out late at night in busy areas you will see people throwing their garbage onto these piles. What you may not see is that almost all trash is sorted to be recycled, and if you’re in a Korean house there can be quite a complex recycling system.
There is wifi everywhere
But it isn’t always secure. I would suggest refraining from logging into personal accounts or doing any online banking over a public wifi connection. Almost all cafes will have wifi and outlets for charging. If they don’t – you can always ask at the counter and they will usually charge it for you out back. Keep your receipt because often the wifi password is written on the receipt, or show your phone to a staff member and they can put the wifi password in for you. If you are on a good wifi connection, the internet is crazy fast compared to Australia.
Eating out is fun
Eating out is usually done with a few people, most Korean food is designed to be shared and going out with friends for Korean food, barbecue or fried chicken is a really fun way to spend an evening. Food is comparatively affordable, delicious and there are thousands of restaurants to choose from. I was really shocked to learn that a common retirement age for Koreans is 45, so many people open restaurants after retiring, resulting in a lot of quality places to choose from. There is often a button on the table to press and your server will come to you. It makes service easy for the customers. Otherwise calling out the Korean word for ‘Over here’ is equivalent to excuse me and not rude, someone will come help you quickly. In most restaurants a little bit of Korean language is required, otherwise you can just point at photos on the menus.
It was kind of weird the first few times I saw it but often in smaller restaurants they use rolls of toilet paper for napkins. They also often give you little wet tissues, which are sometimes sterilised; I collect these and now always have one with me in my bag. See what other people do when they finish their meals, but for cafes especially you are expected to take your dishes and your tray back to the counter when you’re finished. In a lot of places you will also need to get your own cutlery and glasses, cutlery is often in a draw under your table but sometimes in a little mini refrigerator which is actually a steriliser.
Eating in is fun
Delivery service is really fast and easy in Korea (especially if you speak Korean or have a Korean friend to order for you). It is particularly popular for fried chicken (honestly a Korean national pastime), pizza or Chinese food. A must-do in the warmer months is heading down to a nice spot along the Han River, being bombarded with flyers for fried chicken and pizza, before choosing the best deal and enjoying dinner with friends by the river. You can also order fast food like McDonalds. There are a few sites that will allow you to order in English but you can usually find a friendly Korean who will order for you. Payment on delivery. Cash is easier but cards are usually accepted.
Coupons!
Coupons are really popular in Korea. Again, the best apps and the best deals are Korean language only but there are apps for foreigners if you don’t speak any Korean. These often give you discounts to tourist attractions.
One that I have used in the past is ‘Seoul Pass.‘
Pedestrian
Be aware that pedestrians are second (maybe third) to cars on the road. There are pedestrian crossings, and a few will have green lights, but never assume that a car is going to stop for you. Often you need to hold out your hand to say you are crossing or make sure the cars are going to stop. It’s likely they won’t stop for you so you just have to wait for a long enough break in traffic to walk. Also be aware of delivery people on scooters, that service is fast for a reason and those guys are crazy. They will weave around you and take a walkway shortcut.
Please let me know if there is anything you wish you knew before coming to Seoul!
Pindrop Adelaide 